This is a general community written tuning guide to aggregate all the tunable Satsuma parts and give advice on best performing settings
Many of the vehicle components can be modified to increase performance or economy of the Satsuma. Some tuning jobs can be easily done by the player, others require more patience and skill. Also, some tuning jobs can be done by Fleetari, for a price. Be warned, incorrectly tuning your Satsuma can cause damage to your dignity and to the condition of your components. Like most activities in the game, it is advised to make a save before you begin to tinker with your precious Satsuma.
The Satsuma can be specifically tuned to suit the preferred drive style of the player. Though a car tuned for drag racing will not perform well at rallying, and a car tuned for rallying will not perform well on overall speed.
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By following guides below you will achieve at least the same level of tuning as Fleetari provides with his motor tuning service on the parts he a tune. Each tunable component is represented by internal variable that has upper and lower limit and a constant that is subtracted or added to this variable every tune step. Because of how the game internally doing float arithmetic, you'll actually get slightly different results for each tune position depending on from which internal tune value you have started doing tuning steps. Generally, if you aim for higher internal tune value for given tune position, you must first hit lower limit for tune variable so this will be your starting tune value. Respectively, start from upper tune variable limit if you aim for lowest tune value for given tune position. This game mechanic quirk is taken into account in guides below.
The alternator belt must be adjusted correctly, otherwise, it may come loose or snap, causing you to buy another one from Teimo's shop. The belt can be adjusted by loosening adjustment bar screw with flat-head screwdriver and moving alternator with the scroll wheel in hand mode: scroll down to move the alternator left (loosening the belt) and scroll up to move right (tightening the belt). If the belt is too loose, it will make a horrible whirring squeak. The belt should be as loose as possible without whirring. To tune it this way, first, with engine turned off, loosen the screw and move the alternator to the far right position. Next, turn on the engine and move the alternator to the left so whirring starts. Then, slowly, tick by tick, move alternator to the right, until the whirring noise cannot be heard any longer. Once done, tighten the alternator back with the screw.
Another quick and dirty way (you don't even need to turn on the engine) is to move alternator to the far right and then two ticks back to the left. This sets it as loose as the belt can be without whirring.
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The tightness of the belt will not actually affect performance, but the best tightness is just after you can't hear the whirring anymore as this will give the belt the longest lifespan. The belt will eventually break anyway, and it cannot be avoided. If you know it's going to break soon, carry a spare belt as the car doesn't last very long without the alternator charging the battery.
Both the stock and twin carburators are tuned in the same way. It is advised to use the air-fuel ratio (AFR) gauge which can be bought from the parts catalog as this will greatly increase the ease of tuning. Tighten or loosen the idle screw with flat-head screwdriver to adjust the AFR. Loosening idle screw (scrolling down) makes air-fuel mixture richer - AFR goes down, less air in the mixture. Tightening the screw (scrolling up) makes air-fuel mixture leaner - AFR goes up, more air in the mixture. Too high or too low, and your car may eventually stall. Your exhaust smoke will be of dark color with soot particles if AFR is too rich and exhaust smoke will be of white color, will bang and pop if too lean.
13.1 is generally the best agreed value for absolute performance, as it will provide better low-end torque and flatten out the performance curve without lowering high-end torque too much. Anywhere between 14.0 and 14.5 is best for general driving, the performance difference is noticeable but the car will consume less fuel and parts may last longer. Any higher than 14.8 will reduce performance, although an AFR of ~16 may be considered most economical. For turning the Satsuma into a more economical car without scraficing too much performance, a AFR of ~15 is ideal. Fleetari will set AFR to 14.7 when choosing engine adjustment service and to 13.1 when choosing motor tuning.
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The car must be at optimal temperature before adjusting the AFR, as whilst the car is warming up the ratio will differ greatly. This optimal temperature is right in the middle of the engine temperature gauge, though be wary that driving full throttle will increase the temperature and thus change your AFR. While the engine is idling on the neutral gear, AFR displayed on the gauge will be constantly jumping back and forth and it will be difficult to tell what is the actual current AFR. The best way to determine AFR using the gauge is to drive a car around a bit on 3rd or 4th gear - when you throttle your engine while driving and number on the gauge stops jumping, this is your AFR.
For more advanced performance tuning, this can be combined with a 950 PSI nitrous oxide injection and a very skewed distribution timing, allowing the car to reach peak performance with an AFR of roughly 12. This will greatly reduce the longevity of engine parts, however, and therefore requires much more effort to maintain. Small changes in temperature can greatly affect this rich tuning and you will begin to see performance loss almost immediately outside of idle temperatures.
Note: Do not use the choke as a quick way to reduce the AFR values to 'increase performance.' Instead of putting in more fuel, it is actually removing air, which is more detrimental to performance. Best to only use the choke cold and push it in before you hit the road. I.E. if you want more power, don't touch the choke!
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In theory, these are tuned the same way as Stock and Twin carbs, read the above section first. There are now four screws to tune instead of one which is very difficult to balance initially. The easiest method of tuning is to tighten all four idle screws at least 44 times and then loosen them around 10 times (but keep it equal for all the screws) - this way you'll have all four screws at the same position with AFR being around 14.0-14.5 (this should be done with engine turned off). Idle screw has no visual rotation limit, but by making a lot of rotations in one direction you'll eventually hit upper or lower limit of internal tune variable. One may then proceed to tune Race carb in the same way as Stock and Twin carb, but making sure that all the screws are turned equal amount of times and in the same direction during adjustment so that they always have the same position.
This is one of the most essential components that needs to be adjusted for the car to function properly. You will notice two little notches or marks cut into the gear and a component to the bottom right. These notches need to be aligned by using the 10 mm spanner on the gear bolt once it has been properly tightened. Scrolling up (like further tightening the bolt) will rotate gear clockwise, but scrolling down will just loosen the bolt.
The only optimum setting is to have both notches facing each other. Anything outside of this will result in a messy, uncoordinated engine.
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A general guide on rocker shaft tuning can be found here. It is a laborious task but necessary to drive the car properly. Rocker shaft is tuned by adjusting valve clearance of each rocker (clearance between rocker arm and valve tip). Each cylinder has two rockers, an intake and exhaust rocker, making a total of eight tunable items which all should be very closely matched. To adjust valve clearance of particular rocker you will use flat-head screwdriver on it's adjusting screw: tightening the screw (scrolling up) decreases the clearance, loosening the screw (scrolling down) increases it. One will hear a metallic clicking sound if the valves are too loose (excessive valve clearance) or too tight (insufficient valve clearance), though there is no difference in sound between one or eight un-tuned valves. Note that there is no visual indication of the valve clearance in the game - only adjusting screw itself will move during tuning process.
Best performance can be found by having your valves as loose as possible, i.e. the valve clearance is as big as possible, because this increases the cylinder volume for combustion. Luckily,
The car must be at optimal temperature before adjusting the AFR, as whilst the car is warming up the ratio will differ greatly. This optimal temperature is right in the middle of the engine temperature gauge, though be wary that driving full throttle will increase the temperature and thus change your AFR. While the engine is idling on the neutral gear, AFR displayed on the gauge will be constantly jumping back and forth and it will be difficult to tell what is the actual current AFR. The best way to determine AFR using the gauge is to drive a car around a bit on 3rd or 4th gear - when you throttle your engine while driving and number on the gauge stops jumping, this is your AFR.
For more advanced performance tuning, this can be combined with a 950 PSI nitrous oxide injection and a very skewed distribution timing, allowing the car to reach peak performance with an AFR of roughly 12. This will greatly reduce the longevity of engine parts, however, and therefore requires much more effort to maintain. Small changes in temperature can greatly affect this rich tuning and you will begin to see performance loss almost immediately outside of idle temperatures.
Note: Do not use the choke as a quick way to reduce the AFR values to 'increase performance.' Instead of putting in more fuel, it is actually removing air, which is more detrimental to performance. Best to only use the choke cold and push it in before you hit the road. I.E. if you want more power, don't touch the choke!
My Summer Car Rainbow Skin
In theory, these are tuned the same way as Stock and Twin carbs, read the above section first. There are now four screws to tune instead of one which is very difficult to balance initially. The easiest method of tuning is to tighten all four idle screws at least 44 times and then loosen them around 10 times (but keep it equal for all the screws) - this way you'll have all four screws at the same position with AFR being around 14.0-14.5 (this should be done with engine turned off). Idle screw has no visual rotation limit, but by making a lot of rotations in one direction you'll eventually hit upper or lower limit of internal tune variable. One may then proceed to tune Race carb in the same way as Stock and Twin carb, but making sure that all the screws are turned equal amount of times and in the same direction during adjustment so that they always have the same position.
This is one of the most essential components that needs to be adjusted for the car to function properly. You will notice two little notches or marks cut into the gear and a component to the bottom right. These notches need to be aligned by using the 10 mm spanner on the gear bolt once it has been properly tightened. Scrolling up (like further tightening the bolt) will rotate gear clockwise, but scrolling down will just loosen the bolt.
The only optimum setting is to have both notches facing each other. Anything outside of this will result in a messy, uncoordinated engine.
My Summer Car — Ретро раскраска для Сатсумы / Текстуры / Моды и скины
A general guide on rocker shaft tuning can be found here. It is a laborious task but necessary to drive the car properly. Rocker shaft is tuned by adjusting valve clearance of each rocker (clearance between rocker arm and valve tip). Each cylinder has two rockers, an intake and exhaust rocker, making a total of eight tunable items which all should be very closely matched. To adjust valve clearance of particular rocker you will use flat-head screwdriver on it's adjusting screw: tightening the screw (scrolling up) decreases the clearance, loosening the screw (scrolling down) increases it. One will hear a metallic clicking sound if the valves are too loose (excessive valve clearance) or too tight (insufficient valve clearance), though there is no difference in sound between one or eight un-tuned valves. Note that there is no visual indication of the valve clearance in the game - only adjusting screw itself will move during tuning process.
Best performance can be found by having your valves as loose as possible, i.e. the valve clearance is as big as possible, because this increases the cylinder volume for combustion. Luckily,
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