It was a huge pleasure to visit Stephen Jones during London Fashion Week for his pop up in St. James'. Working with clients across the celebrity spectrum and providing hats to illustreous designers and was introduced to Paris in the 1980's by Jean Paul Gaultier no less. Stephen has an incredible career to date helped largely by a seeking out the best training in the fields that interested him.. He studied art at High Wycomb College before attending Central Saint Martins in London. It was there during his Summer breaks that he gained a place at Lachasse, one of the leading British Couturiers of the 20th century studying millinery for successive Summer breaks under Shirley Hex. Lachasse was a pillar of the formal establishment from 1928 until it's closure in 2006 but it had the forsight to open it's doors to many students who would push the creative boundaries further including John Galliano, Hamish Bowels and much earlier Digby Morton and Hardy Amies.
In the bright halls of Dover Street Market a number of hats semed to be enjoying themselves and having a party before the people arrived. With Darren Gerrish on standby to capture any secret hat frolics I looked at the beautiful pieces and spoke to members of Stephens team. You can see from images of some of the collection that the scope of Stephen's output is really varied, something to suit everyone and there is no such thing as 'not being a hat person'. Excusing my silly face above, you can see an example of a small crowned piece with veil.
The hats were having a great time as were the people. Looking at Stephen's designs it really brings it home that hats can be worn for every day. Some milliners produce beautiful pieces that ou will see heading to weddings and the Summer or Winter formal seasons of race meets but many of Stephen's designs blend into everyday life. Can we embrace wearing hats again on a bigger scale as we did in this country before the 1980's? I hope so, I think it would be fun.
Designed To The Nines
Above you can see me in my favourite piece placed to the right, a soft headband with veil featuring small crystals that catch the light. It was a very charming piece and for someone who is cautious when it comes to hats, I really liked it. I wasn't the only one either as this soon found it's way to crown American television personality Billy Porter and as you can see where he was 'hatted' by Stephen below, he really liked it. Above to the right a shower of flower petals swirl around a head in a look channelling the styles of the 1960's.
Erdem Moralioglu is one of the leading fashion designers on the London show schedule and his collections are a treat to see and absorb. Spring and Summer 2020 collection inspiration came from Tina Modoti the multi-talented Italian Model, photographer and actress who moved first to America in 1913 where she worked for several years before moving on to Mexico in 1922. Among many projects, she documented the lives of Mexican women in different regions of the country and became a communist.
A Black skirt suit is dotted with White spots that open the collection in a vibrant monochrome that set the tone for Belle Epoch nuances of glamour. The jacket is classically recognisable but look closely at the skirt and a neat point of innovation appears with two seams descending on the diamond diagonal bordered with pin tucked ruched fabrics. Vintage re-invented leaps forth at full force with a beautiful Broderie Anglaise dress overlaid with a Black sheer lace shift featuring three tiers of skirts at the hip, knee and mid-calf. A White jacket sewn with beads in a geometric alignment carries a strong flavour of traditional Mexican crafts. It’s a dazzling look that would look very beautiful at Summer events.
Summer Fashion Trends 2023 You Should Know
Centre above a full length dress in Black takes advantage of using the full length of the figure to show embroidery and I think crochet detail to full effect. It’s filled with the creative verve and passion of Mexican textiles crafts. Patterns rippling across the surface of the fabric and cut-away circles with embroidered borders take the eye on a creative journey. Its glamour and elegance defined. There is little Italian influence in the collection, I would say, beyond the lengths of the clothes that was customary at the start of the twentieth century. A Saffron-Yellow floral pattern weaves across the surface of a dress again tiered in three layers reaching to the ground. The full fiesta of Mexico and pride in the regional crafts produced is very evident here. Black provides the strength of contrast with a broad brimmed hat and cravat. To the right a sheer White tulle base is adorned with Saffron coloured embroidered flowers. Like something blooming out of the fields of Mexico, this piece pieces adopts a simpler structure than its contemporaries early in the collection. Perhaps hinting at travel the scarf in this piece is sewn with a design resembling a compass
A signature floral pattern of the collection appears on a bright mid-Green fabric outlined in Black and painted with White to fill out the colour of select flower heads, also appearing in a hat with small feathers strewn across the surface. In contrast a bright Pink scarf tied about the neck and Black silk long gloves leave the figure almost completely covered yet the modesty is perhaps disguised by the boldness of the look. A bright Pink dress restricts tiered ruffles to the knee to ankle lengths with small flourishes at the upper sleeve of the light sheer fabric. Small Yellow flowers welcome the sunlight printed upon the outer sheer shift and the Opera length gloves and neck-tie heighten the glamour. Beautiful fine White embroidery trimmed with pristine lace paid further tribute to the careful skill and craft of the Mexican women that Modoti met. A dress that commences with the structure and formality of a shirt-dress descends to the fluttering lengths of a soft conventionally feminine piece. Sewn with panels of varied fabric weave, it’s almost a play on upcycling as less conventional than a garment that would have been worn in the past. A Turquoise dress printed with Red flowers channels the Edwardian/Belle Epoch aesthetic that was embraced through central America in its enhancement of the female figure. To the right the ‘handkerchief’ cut and fall of fabric is emphasised in the loose dropped bodice sitting over a similar piece to an earlier dress.
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Broad Red flowers grew and weaved across the surface fabric of a dress. Cut from a single undulating piece of cloth, this semi-sheer piece again curtseyed to the beauty of length and the ease and mystique with which it wraps the figure. Another Black silk neck-tie and pair of over the elbow gloves create a formalwear option that could walk the Red Carpet and turn up the style heat in the summer months. The fabled central and South American love of colour continues in a calico trouser suit with flowers and leaves flowing across the surface. A crisply tailored White shirt keeps the look in a formal sense of harmony.
Spring Summer 2020 Fashion Trends For Everyday Wear
Floral colour splashes jump to the neck scarf in the look centre above with a broad brimmed hat keeping the rays of sunlight at bay. A Greige midi-length blouse dress is perforated with small holes to give an updated twist on the heritage applique detail blouse. Soft White silk trousers are printed with more Calico in an inky Black. An outsized Broderie Anglaise stitch with flounced ruffle collar and dropped waist shirt is completed by a pair of wide legged trousers. It’s another demure look that will keep you smartly covered during the hotter months around the world. A full-length floral floating piece channels long lines and glamour of a bygone age with ruffles around the above elbow sleeves descending towards the waist in a diagonal across the bodice. It’s an easy piece for day and evening wear next summer.
The silken neckerchief takes on a new guise in a cape, blouse and skirt combination. An expanse of silk bordering drawn around beautifully printed panels of fabric takes chintz to another level. Scarlet over the elbow gloves are created in an abundance of fabric with a softer Pink large bow tied behind the back of the model chiming with the soft roses of the fabric illustration. A Black full length dress with its two tiered skirt really channels the vintage ERDEM that so many of us know and love. Hints of the 1970’s long line that he is known to admire also correspond with the subtle style tones of the Belle Epoch. Two designs formerly used in separate calico print pieces form both a long line poncho with fringe tassels and generous culottes. It’s a statement glamour look that will catch the eyes. The hallmark SS20 Broderie Anglaise fabric created by ERDEM returns in the form of a triple layered dress
Floral colour splashes jump to the neck scarf in the look centre above with a broad brimmed hat keeping the rays of sunlight at bay. A Greige midi-length blouse dress is perforated with small holes to give an updated twist on the heritage applique detail blouse. Soft White silk trousers are printed with more Calico in an inky Black. An outsized Broderie Anglaise stitch with flounced ruffle collar and dropped waist shirt is completed by a pair of wide legged trousers. It’s another demure look that will keep you smartly covered during the hotter months around the world. A full-length floral floating piece channels long lines and glamour of a bygone age with ruffles around the above elbow sleeves descending towards the waist in a diagonal across the bodice. It’s an easy piece for day and evening wear next summer.
The silken neckerchief takes on a new guise in a cape, blouse and skirt combination. An expanse of silk bordering drawn around beautifully printed panels of fabric takes chintz to another level. Scarlet over the elbow gloves are created in an abundance of fabric with a softer Pink large bow tied behind the back of the model chiming with the soft roses of the fabric illustration. A Black full length dress with its two tiered skirt really channels the vintage ERDEM that so many of us know and love. Hints of the 1970’s long line that he is known to admire also correspond with the subtle style tones of the Belle Epoch. Two designs formerly used in separate calico print pieces form both a long line poncho with fringe tassels and generous culottes. It’s a statement glamour look that will catch the eyes. The hallmark SS20 Broderie Anglaise fabric created by ERDEM returns in the form of a triple layered dress
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